Moderate Cragging at Joshua Tree, California
- wgilbertartist
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Although I live in Canada, I have spent many months in this awesome American National Park, which offers a combination of beautiful scenery, excellent camping, and thousands and thousands of (mostly short) climbing routes. Even better, it is often possible to climb right through the winter (although the camping can be frosty). It can be unpleasantly hot from May-September. The nearest city is Palm Springs, but the park is also just a half-day's drive from Los Angeles and Las Vegas.
Climbing in Joshua Tree is on large piles of boulders of coarse quartz monzonite, which usually offers excellent friction and threatens all but the toughest skin. There is excellent bouldering, and some limited sport climbing. However, most route development has followed a very "traditional" ethic, meaning bolts are sparse, and most routes require some traditional gear, including building gear anchors at the top of routes. Much of the park falls within "wilderness" designation, which discourages new bolting and prohibits power drills. Make sure you know your descent before climbing (designated downclimbs can be intimidating, and rap anchors are often absent).
Most routes in Joshua tree are short, but some of the "boulders" exceed 200' (60m) in height, offering multi-pitch adventures. The climbing style, angle and texture varies so dramatically that it is difficult to characterize. One can find excellent crack climbing, face climbing and friction slabs, sometimes all in the same area. Some free-standing formations allow climbers to choose sun or shade, and to switch sides after lunch.
What follows is a list of easy-approach, moderate single-pitch crags, great for a day or half-day. Many can be top-roped, either by hiking to the top or leading a moderate route, but anchors need to be built with trad gear. Grades in Joshua Tree can be a bit stiff, start easy!
Trash Can Rock
Picnic/parking area means handy toilets and lots of spectators. Very easy routes (5.1-5.8) face west, some challenging cracks (5.10-5.11+) face east, and a few in-between slab routes test the nerves. Possible to scramble up or descend the north end of the formation. This crag can be busy or have guided groups, so have a back-up plan.
Atlantis
Sheltered east-facing crag with a short, flat approach. Most lines follow cracks, ranging from moderate 5.5 to moderate 5.10. Scramble off back to descend. This is a great spot on a windy day. Unusually soft (or normal!) grades for JTree. Try Minotaur or Vorpal Sword.
Dairy Queen and IRS Walls
Dairy Queen (right) is a short-ish east-facing wall up and left of Hemingway. Most routes feel gym-like, steep with juggy holds, and the average grade is about 5.6-5.7. Top access and descent is a short scramble to the right (north). Ignore the single-bolt rap anchor. Try Mr. Misty Kiss or Frosty Cone. A short scramble down and to the right allows access to the IRS wall, with the excellent Taxman (5.10a).
Hemingway
Short, flat approach from a marked pullout. This east-facing crag has a selection of long (about 100') routes, mainly 5.7-5.10-. Rappel anchors are available, make sure your rope is long enough! White Lightning, Overseer and Poodles are People Too are standouts.
Rock Garden Valley
Bit of a cryptic scramble to reach this usually quiet spot with a wide range of fun routes from 5.7-5.9. Cliff faces east. Most routes follow cracks and are well- protected, but check out Rock Candy for some spicy face climbing. Descent is from rappel anchors, so you'll need to lead something to set a top-rope.
Intersection Rock
A very busy area, this giant boulder (200' high!) hosts a number of routes, some climbed in 2 pitches. Grades range from 5.3 to very hard. Zero approach and often many spectators. Expect stout climbing, and wind on top may make it hard to hear your belayer. Excellent views, descend carefully with a single rope rappel near the north end. Nearby campground formations offer numerous options from about 5.7-5.10a.
Island in the Sky
This usually quiet area near Split Rock houses a number of fun crack climbs, including the excellent Bird of Fire. Grades mostly around 5.9-5.10-. Scramble up a slab to reach the base of the routes. Friends don't let friends climb Dolphin (5.7), unless they are offwidth-loving, large-cam-carrying masochists.
Steve Canyon
Usually quiet area just outside Hidden Valley Campground, can also be approached from Hemingway. Routes are not closely grouped, but most approaches are fairly flat. Most grades range from desperate 5.6 to moderate 5.10. Try Super Roof, Watanobe Wall and Amanda. Cliffs face both east and west.
Sports Challenge Rock
Not really a "moderate" crag, unlike the nearby Thin Wall, but frequently top-roped. Access is a scramble from the south. Bring long anchors if planning to top-rope. Grades range from 5.9-5.12. Try Sphincter Quits, Rap Bolters are Weak, Clean and Jerk and Leave it to Beaver for maximum pump.
Short Wall
Accessed from Indian Cove, which has its own separate park entrance. Short approach. Wide variety of grades (5.3-5.11), often top-roped and guided. This area is frequently warm and sheltered when the rest of the park is cold.
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