It seems like every time I start prepping for a trip to the American southwest, I spend hours thumbing through guidebooks, and I always come back to the Red Rock Canyon guidebook and the many excellent long trad routes.
Red Rocks is an extremely scenic and popular area with thousands of amazing climbing routes. If climbing there, please remember this is a sensitive desert wilderness area. Don't camp out in the canyons, keep noise and litter to a minimum and don't climb on sandstone after rain (24-72hrs, depending on the amount of rain). Avoid cutting trails.
This is a short, very subjective list of my favourite moderate trad routes, the ones I like to take other climbers on. I make no promises about the quality or safety of these routes, as you may have a different impression!
Physical Graffiti 5.6, Calico Basin
This is a very pleasant 2-pitch route with a moderate approach and good rock. The climb starts off with a steep, juggy first pitch (bolted anchor), followed by a long crack and groove leading to the top. One rappel into a gully leads to a short scramble back to the bottom. Good pro, good climbing, and if you have more time, lots of other options (both trad and sport) in the vicinity.
Cookie Monster to Cat in the Hat 5.7, Pine Creek Canyon
This great combo helps to (temporarily) avoid the lines on Cat in the Hat. A bit of a scramble to reach the start, then up the obvious corner for 2 pitches with a little jog right for the short third pitch. Then follow pitches 3-6 of Cat in the Hat, if it's not too busy. Good rock and pro (small slab runout at the end of Cat in the Hat) and the climbing feels moderate for 5.7. No bolts on Cookie Monster, so you will need to build anchors where it makes sense, and remember to bring 2 ropes to rap Cat in the Hat.
Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab 5.7, Oak Creek Canyon
This link-up offers almost 2000' of climbing at a very moderate grade. Both climbs have small runouts and sandy rock, but in general the climbing is very high quality. Make sure to have 2 ropes to rappel. The approach is not too long, and there are several different ways to reach the upper slab (I think Johnny Vegas is the best). It is possible to bail at a few different points if running late, and the alternative topout and descent into the Painted Bowl is worth doing at least once (preferably not at night). As indicated by the name, this is a sunny climb best avoided on hot days.
Tunnel Vision, 5.7+, White Rock Peak
A very unique climb: every pitch feels like a tunnel! This climb follows grooves, chimneys and an actual tunnel-through to the top of the Angel Food Wall. The approach is not too bad, but give yourself a bit of time for the descent. In general the climbing is good quality and the rock decent. The tunnel is quite runout, but not very difficult. A great adventure.
Ragged Edges, 5.8, Willow Springs
This obvious varnished crack is visible from the picnic area at Willow Springs. It is usually in the shade. A short approach, quality climbing, an easy descent and lots of other nearby options: what's not to love? The climb can be done in one long pitch, but is usually climbed in two. Be sure to bring large cams for the upper crack, which is a bit runout at the top...on easy ground. The mandatory polished jamcrack before and after the first anchor is memorable! Walk off to the right.
Dark Shadows, 5.8, Pine Creek Canyon
This climb is very popular, has a super-runout first pitch, and rappels into a pool of water that pretty much always soaks your rope. Oh, and it never gets any sun. So why is it on this list? The big varnished corner is absolutely amazing, so good! Totally worth it. Climb the first pitch (2 bolts!) and second traversing pitch (swing potential, can be combined), and prepare to be amazed by the long 3rd pitch up great rock. Pitch 4 is also decent...then you descend into the creek. The full 11-13 pitch route is a good adventure, with a very long non-technical descent, but the first 4 pitches are the best.
Lotta Balls, 5.8+, First Creek Canyon
This climb is just great quality, and until near the end it really grabs your attention. A moderate (5.7) first pitch climbs up over a roof and up to an anchor. Then you are up against the crux: a sea of tiny balls of rock in glossy varnish. Two somewhat distant bolts protect the crux, which is super-classic. The rest of the climb is also good. Nearby are numerous other great 1-4 pitch routes, one before and one after lunch?
Ginger Cracks, 5.9, Juniper Canyon
This 1000' route is just around the corner from the more popular Crimson Chrysalis, but it gets my vote in terms of quality and variety. Don't underestimate the approach or descent, and bring two ropes if rappelling Power Failure. There are a few bold sections (the first move of the second pitch comes to mind), and the crux is pulling out of a triangular slot on the second pitch. Higher up, the bolted 5.9 crux is less intimidating. There is a bolted final pitch variation that I recommend. Nearby Power Failure and Unimpeachable Groping (both 5.10) are also excellent.
Frigid Air Buttress, 5.9+, Icebox Canyon
This might be my favourite all-round route, just for the length and variety. The approach is not too difficult, but the route doesn't seem to get the crowds seen on some of the other classics. There are a few small runouts, but the cruxes are well-protected. Frigid Air Buttress has everything from jamming, to face-climbing, almost fully-enclosed chimneys, hand traverses....wow! The descent takes a bit of time and route-finding, would be nice to do it before dark. There's a bit of sun first thing in the morning, but this is primarily a shade route.
Triassic Sands, 5.10-, Black Velvet Canyon
A wonderful climb for those who like cracks. As usual the rock has some face holds and rests to ease the difficulty. The approach hike is fine, although the drive is a bit rough, and the first pitch is moderate. The crux is short and well-protected, leading to long, enjoyable moderate hand-cracks. The 4th pitch (5.10-) is amazing, if you have the energy, but best to stop after that. Be careful not to get your rope stuck descending this pitch. For this route, you'll want two ropes and extra hand-sized cams.
Also great:
Rising Moons 5.5, First Creek Canyon
Geronimo 5.6, Juniper Canyon
Cat in the Hat 5.6, Pine Creek Canyon
Birdland 5.7, Pine Creek Canyon
Algae on Parade 5.7, First Creek Canyon
Olive Oil 5.7, Juniper Canyon
Great Red Book 5.8, Calico Hills (2nd Pullout)
Black Magic 5.8, First Creek Canyon
Rainbow Buttress 5.8+, Oak Creek Canyon
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+, Juniper Canyon
Armatron 5.9, Juniper Canyon
Epinephrine 5.9, Black Velvet Canyon
Black Orpheus 5.10-, Oak Creek Canyon
Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10-, Black Velvet Canyon
Sour Mash 5.10-, Black Velvet Canyon
So many more routes on the list!
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